Gotokuji Temple ・ A Tokyo Oasis of Manekineko Lucky Cats Along the Setagaya Line
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CONTENTS
Looking for a little luck? Follow these beckoning kitties to Tokyo’s Gotokuji Temple.
Gotokuji, a Temple of Samurai
Ever noticed the little cat figures in Japanese restaurant windows or perched near cash registers, with one paw up as if they're waving you over? These lucky cats are called manekineko (招き猫), literally "inviting cat," and they're thought to be charms that bring prosperity wherever they may be. But in Tokyo, there's one lucky spot with more lucky cats than you've ever seen in one place: Gotokuji Temple. Legend has it that this temple may even be the birthplace of these popular charms! Now a popular sightseeing destination along the Tokyu Setagaya Line (especially among cat lovers), the temple (properly Daikeizan Gotokuji or 大谿山 豪徳寺) was once the family temple of the Ii Clan, a samurai family with members in high places, who eventually ended up as the lords of the Hikone domain in western Japan. At the time of the temple's designation, the Ii Clan were in charge of an area now found in western Tokyo, and this old family temple still marks their territory.
Despite being in a fairly accessible part of Tokyo, the Gotokuji Temple grounds are full of green pines, plum and cherry trees, peonies, azaleas, and all kinds of colorful flowers and greenery. In the autumn, the leaves turn red and orange, making it a popular spot for koyo as well. Whether you love lucky cats or not, the temple garden makes Gotokuji an ideal place to stop for a moment of peace and a breath of fresh air.
So, Why the Cats?
The story goes that once upon a time in the early 17th century, the daimyo Ii Naotaka was strolling along on his way back from falconry practice, when he walked past a temple gate and noticed a cat beckoning him inside. Ii Naotaka must have been a cat lover, because he decided to stop in at the temple for a while, and as soon as he followed the cat inside, the skies opened up and the sound of thunder crashed through the air. Of course, Ii Naotaka was safely under the roof by that point, and having avoided the terrible weather, he proceeded to have a very pleasant chat with the temple monk. His heart full of gratitude for being whisked away from the storm just in the nick of time, Ii Naotaka supported the temple from that point onward, and he even had it rebuilt in 1633.
Thanks to the enduring bond between Ii Naotaka and that temple cat, Gotokuji Temple even built a Buddhist shrine to Kannon called the Shofuku-den that's really more of a shrine to Ii Naotaka's feline friend, and named the beckoning cat the Manekineko. Nowadays, there are a huge number of the lucky cats of all sizes in and around the Shofuku-den, and it's said that the cats can help grant you good health, prosperity, and all kinds of luck. Plus, it's a great place to take pictures.
It's worth noting that, while the Gotokuji Temple cats have their right paws raised in the classic position, they do not have their left paws reaching for any gold coins, a position often found on standard manekineko. It's said that, because the Iis were a samurai clan and not merchants, the beckoning manekineko's right paw is offering opportunity – not just monetary results.
Play Cat and Mouse Around Gotokuji
In addition to the Shofuku-den, there are actually a number of places around Gotokuji Temple where you'll find "hidden cats," including the 22.5-meter three-tiered pagoda. Tucked away among the carvings above the pagoda entrance, the twelve animals of the zodiac prance along the wall, along with quite a few little cats. In the traditional story of the zodiac, it's said that the cat wasn't chosen to be one of the 12 animals because it was tricked by the rat. Fortunately at Gotokuji, or at least in this carving, the two creatures seem to be getting along alright!
Where else can you find hidden kitties around the temple grounds? We'll leave it to you to find out, so don't forget to keep an eye out!
Getting to Gotokuji Temple
For those with a fondness for trams, trollies, and streetcars, getting to Gotokuji Temple is half the fun! One of just two streetcar lines still remaining in Tokyo, the Tokyu Setagaya Line slips through a little chunk of western Tokyo at street level, sometimes even using cars decorated to look like the temple's lucky cats. The Setagaya area is lively and full of interesting shopping spots and bits of everyday Tokyo life, making Gotokuji Temple (5 min from Miyanosaka Station/宮の坂駅) just one stop on a fun Tokyo tour!
For a quicker train trip, there's always Gotokuji Station on the Odakyu Line instead, which is slightly farther from the temple, but has the added bonus of housing a little lucky cat statue, which waits to greet travelers by the ticket gates. If you want to hunt down every single iconic lucky cat in the area, this one's a must-see.
Gotokuji Temple (大谿山 豪德寺)
2-24-7 Gotokuji, Setagaya City, Tokyo
Hours:
6:00 – 18:00 (late March ~ mid-September)
6:00 – 17:00 (late September ~ mid-March)
*Temple office etc. open 8:00 – 16:30 (~17:00 in summer)
Access: 5 min from Miyanosaka Station, 12 min from Gotokuji Station
Official Website (en)
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Details
NAME:Gotokuji Temple (豪徳寺)
ACCESS:5 min from Miyanosaka Station, 12 min from Gotokuji Station
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CHUGOKU
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The Chugoku Region (中国地方) consists of five prefectures: Hiroshima, Okayama, Shimane, Tottori, and Yamaguchi. In Chugoku you’ll find the sand dunes of Tottori, and Hiroshima’s atomic bomb site, plus centers of ancient history like Grand Shrine of Izumo.
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HIROSHIMA
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Hiroshima Prefecture has everything, from world heritage sites to beautiful nature and delicious local cuisine, and it's either an hour and a half from Tokyo by plane, or four hours by train. Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima Island and the Atomic Bomb Dome, two Hiroshima UNESCO sites, are famous around the world, but in Japan it's also famous for food. Seafood from the Seto Inland Sea, especially oysters, Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki, and Setouchi lemons are all popular, and the natural scenery alone is worth seeing.
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SHIKOKU
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On the other side of the Seto Inland Sea opposite Japan’s main island, Shikoku (四国) is a region made up of four prefectures: Ehime, Kagawa, Kochi, and Tokushima. The area is famous for its udon (in Kagawa), and the beautiful Dogo Onsen hot springs (in Ehime).
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KAGAWA
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Kagawa Prefecture is on the northern part of the island of Shikoku, facing Japan's main island and the Seto Inland Sea. It's known for being the smallest prefecture in Japan, by area, but at the same time Kagawa is called the "Udon Prefecture" thanks to its famous sanuki udon. Aside from Kotohiragu Shrine and Ritsurin Garden, the prefecture's small islands are popular, and Kagawa is full of unique destinations, like Angel Road. They say that if you lay eyes on Zenigata Sunae, a huge Kagawa sand painting, you'll never have money troubles ever again.
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KYUSHU
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Located in the most southwestern part of Japan, Kyushu (九州) is an island of 7 prefectures: Fukuoka, Saga, Nagasaki, Kumamoto, Oita, Miyazaki, and Kagoshima. The island's unique culture has been influenced by Chinese and Dutch trade, along with missionaries coming in through Nagasaki's port. Modern-day travelers love the lush natural scenery and fresh food, plus the natural hot springs found all throughout the area (thanks to volcanic activity)!
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FUKUOKA
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Fukuoka Prefecture has the highest population on the southern island of Kyushu, with two major cities: Fukuoka and Kitakyushu. Thanks to growing transportation networks, Fukuoka is more accessible than ever, and so are the many local attractions. On top of historical spots like Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, travelers shouldn't miss Fukuoka's food scene, with motsu nabe (offal hotpot), mentaiko (spicy cod roe), and famous Hakata ramen―best eaten from a food stall in the Nakasu area of Hakata. Plus, it's full of all sorts of destinations for travelers, like trendy shopping centers, and the beautiful nature of Itoshima and Yanagawa.
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KAGOSHIMA
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Kagoshima Prefecture played a major role in Japan's modernization as a backdrop for famous historical figures like samurais Saigo Takamori and Okubo Toshimichi, who pushed Japan out of the Edo era and into the Meiji. Because of that, Sengan-en Garden is just one of many historical destinations, and when it comes to attractions Kagoshima has plenty: the active volcano of Sakurajima, popular hot springs Ibusuki Onsen and Kirishima Onsen, World Heritage Site Yakushima Island, even what Japan calls the "island closest to heaven," Amami Oshima. Kagoshima might be found on the very southernmost tip of the southern island of Kyushu, but there's plenty to see.
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OKINAWA
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The island chain of Okinawa (沖縄) makes up the southernmost tip of Japan, which is why it's also the most tropical area in the country. Thanks to a history of independence and totally distinct political and cultural events, Okinawa has a unique culture, and remnants of the Ryukyu Kingdom are still visible all over the islands. Food, language, traditional dress, it's all a little different! It's also said to be the birthplace of karate.
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