New at the Conbini: Vintage Rice

White rice is a staple in Japan, and for most cooks and diners alike, freshly picked rice is the key to a good meal. But when the rice starts to run out, what do you do? With rice shortages leaving shelves bare and driving up prices on whatever’s left, both the Japanese government and private businesses have been looking for ways to solve the problem until more rice can be harvested, and now the leading convenience store chain Lawson has come up with a new strategy that same call innovative, and others call off-putting: vintage onigiri rice balls.

Turning Government Stockpiles Into Gourmet Sustenance

With the demand for rice far exceeding this year’s fresh supply, in May the Japanese government decided to bring 300,000 tons of rice to the market, offering rice harvested in 2021 and 2022 directly to retailers through no-bid contracts. According to a report from the Mainichi Shimbun, Lawson purchased a portion of the stockpile rice as well as two tons of 2023 rice from another source, hoping to offer it to customers. In practice, this “aged” rice is perfectly good to eat, similar in flavor and nutrition to fresher rice. Rice lovers and regular consumers, however, tend to believe that old rice loses its flavor and aroma, leaving a substandard product with an inferior texture as time goes on.

The problem? It’s not so easy to sell 4-year-old rice to Japanese consumers, who expect rice harvested within a year of eating.

Lawson’s solution? Give this “old rice” a nice new name!

On top of their standard rice balls, Lawson is planning to launch a new line branded as “Vintage Rice Onigiri,” starting in July. The new products will be priced at around 120 yen each, and initially, limited to select stores in the Kanto region.

Japan’s “Aged Rice” Revolution

At a press conference in the beginning of June, Lawson President Sadanobu Takemasu pointed out that while they were hopeful that customers looking for a good deal on their favorite rice balls would actually be satisfied with the older rice supply, selling food marked as “old rice, extra old rice, extra extra old rice” and so on would be a challenge. Interest in “aged rice,” however, is on the rise in Japan. To appeal to customers while still openly and accurately revealing exactly what rice was being used, Lawson went with a naming system that’s a riff on wine vintages, hoping to inspire “a sense of fun and discovery” instead of hesitation. Rice balls made with rice harvested in 2023 will be labeled “Vintage 2023” and so on, implying the use of sophisticated “aged rice” instead of plain “old rice.”

Small-Pack Emergency Rice for Everyday Use

Along with their vintage rice balls, Lawson also revealed plans to begin selling some of their “aged” stockpile rice in small packs, turning rice stored as part of Japan’s national emergency reserves into 2kg bags priced at 700 yen and 1kg bags at 360 yen. These smaller rice packs are meant to provide a better option for single-person households that have been struggling to deal with the shortages. Designed to meet the needs of single-person households, Lawson President Takemasu explained that they were releasing the small rice packs to “align with the lifestyles of customers,” especially seniors and others who shop daily for their meals.

How Is the Japanese Public Reacting to Vintage Rice Onigiri?

While the verdict is still out on the actual flavor of these old-rice onigiri, the unusual marketing approach aligns with a broader effort in Japan seen in recent years, aiming to reduce food waste and achieve other sustainability goals. And yet, the public response from individual customers has been mixed, with some pleased with the new affordable offerings and many others complaining that Lawson is trying to pass off old, inedible food to their customers. The love for freshly picked rice is strong in Japan, making “aged rice” a hard sell no matter the circumstances. However, with rice still limited and prices still high, rumor has it that other convenience store giants like 7-Eleven and FamilyMart are also planning to sell stockpile rice in similar formats. Perhaps, before long, a day will come when the people of Japan will take “aged” or “vintage” rice in stride, choosing a “Vintage 2023” onigiri when pinching pennies or looking to save – only time will tell!

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