Highly Recommended: Toyama’s Kurobe Gorge, Full of Picturesque Natural Beauty
Chubu Tour Kurobe | 2019.07.24 |
Toyama is in the Chubu Region of Japan, in the central part of Japan's main island of Honshu, with the western border taken up by the coast of the Sea of Japan. We can thank the sea, and especially Toyama Bay, for the abundant fresh seafood found around the prefecture! But the Unazuki Onsen area also provides Kurobe with gloriously steamy hot springs, bursting forth from the mountain crags. All this geological variation makes for deep ravines, and the rivers running through those are a great place to try canyoning. Take the Kurobe Gorge Railway's Torokko Train around the area to explore, and we're pretty sure you'll be pleasantly surprised by how much fun this unassuming region can be.
How to Get to Kurobe's Unazuki Onsen Area
To:
Kurobe-Unazuki Onsen Station (黒部宇奈月温泉駅)
From:
Tokyo Station (東京駅) – 2 hours 20 minutes, 11,860 yen
Kanazawa Station (金沢駅) – 35 minutes, 4,020 yen
Toyama Station (富山駅) – 12 minutes, 2,940 yen
From the shinkansen station you have to take one more train ride to get to Unazuki Onsen proper. Cross the street to get to Shin-Kurobe Station on the Toyama Chihou Railway line, and take that for another 30 minutes or so (round trip discount ticket: 1,100 yen). The way over is quite picturesque, including the retro train itself, so enjoy the ride! You’ll eventually want to get off at Unazukionsen Station.
(Note: it’s a bit confusing, but the shinkansen station where you transfer is “Kurobe-Unazuki Onsen Station”, and your final destination is just “Unazukionsen Station”.)
Unazuki Onsen Togen Ryokan
If you'd like to see for yourself what Togen Ryokan is like, they have a variety of rooms available. Some come with standard beds, and others are like this Japanese-style tatami room, made for families or groups, with lots of places to sit and a great view of the river. If you're still doubting the comfort of these rooms, just know that most have fragrant tatami floors, 70% of them come equipped with state-of-the-art massage chairs, and all of them have yukata available in a few different sizes, for relaxing in around the hotel. We were certainly pretty comfortable!
Unazuki Onsen Togen Ryokan
Address: 22-1 Unazuki Onsen, Kurobe City, Toyama
Phone: 81-765-62-1131
Check-in/Check-out: 15:00/10:00
Official Website (en)
Why a Ryokan? Reason #1:
Enjoy your own private hot spring bath!
Togen Ryokan has three of these private baths available to rent, all for no additional charge. The water here is mildly alkaline, which they say makes for beautiful skin post-bath! Just call the front desk to check availability, then pick up the keys and enjoy your soak.
(Available 15:00 - 22:00/7:00 - 10:00, 40 minutes at a time.)
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- If you want to really stretch out in a private bath, or you just want to rent one for up to eight people, check out Togen Ryokan's larger open-air rental bath. This one requires a fee, 2,000 yen for 45 minutes, but hey, if not now then when? Treat yourself. To make sure you can reserve a spot, make your reservation at check in.
(Available 15:30 - 23:15/6:00 - 9:45. 2,000 yen plus tax for 45 minutes. )
- If you want to really stretch out in a private bath, or you just want to rent one for up to eight people, check out Togen Ryokan's larger open-air rental bath. This one requires a fee, 2,000 yen for 45 minutes, but hey, if not now then when? Treat yourself. To make sure you can reserve a spot, make your reservation at check in.
Why a Ryokan? Reason #2:
Enjoy... the public bath!
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- If you want the true onsen experience, then you've got to spend some time in the public baths! Visiting a ryokan with hot spring facilities means you're in for a pretty spectacular bathtime experience. Togen Ryokan has open-air baths built from hinoki cypress, and the warm wood gives off a pleasant aroma. Since the ryokan is right next to the river, you can watch the cold Kurobe River water rush by while feeling the hot spring water gently lap up around you.
In addition, there is also a boulder bath (岩風呂) and a special granite bath (御影石風呂) indoors.
(15:00 - 23:30 – rock bath open to men, granite bath open to women.
24:00 - 10:00 – rock bath open to women, granite bath open to men.)
- If you want the true onsen experience, then you've got to spend some time in the public baths! Visiting a ryokan with hot spring facilities means you're in for a pretty spectacular bathtime experience. Togen Ryokan has open-air baths built from hinoki cypress, and the warm wood gives off a pleasant aroma. Since the ryokan is right next to the river, you can watch the cold Kurobe River water rush by while feeling the hot spring water gently lap up around you.
Why a Ryokan? Reason #3:
Indulge in a kaiseki multi-course meal.
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- Ryokan are known for offering really delicious multi-course traditional Japanese meals, so this ryokan staple is a great way to try some of Toyama Prefecture's impressive agricultural specialties. We tried firefly squid (ホタルイカ), Toyama's local variety of high-quality wagyu called “himi-gyu” (氷見牛), and very fresh abalone.
Sightseeing in Kurobe: ① Canyoning!
(Available from early June through to the end of October.)
1. Choose a tour course. (Find your options here.)
- 3 Hour Course: 13+ y.o., 10,000 yen per person.
- 6 Hour Course: 20+ y.o., 15,000 yen per person.
2. Book your tour online, or over the phone.
- From the homepage, email them with your details.
- Make phone reservations in English or Japanese.
3. Confirm your reservation completion by e-mail.
4. Meet your J-WET Adventures guides at Nakajima Ski Center.
- If you’re staying within a five or ten minute drive, they offer a shuttle service. Just ask!
5. Pay for your tour, get ready to go canyoning, and then go for it!
- Don’t forget to bring your bathing suit or clothes you don’t mind soaking through, along with a towel, and anything else they recommend.
- If you use contacts, make sure to bring a pair of goggles.
Sightseeing in Kurobe: ② Unazuki Dam
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- Walking to see the impressive dam is a 2.7 km (1.7 mile) walk from Unazukionsen Station (Google Maps), but you can also skip the trek and get a great view right from your seat on the Torokko Train that passes by.
Sightseeing in Kurobe: ③ Kurobe Gorge Railway's Torokko Train
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- This railway was built in 1923, and was originally used to carry cargo around the area, but opened for general passenger use after 30 years in 1953. The history of the shift from freight train to leisure railway is actually kind of an interesting story. While working on dam construction along the river, workers would ride the railway with the cargo to get to the construction sites. Looking around at the scenery while they rode, these construction workers happened to lay eyes on some particularly picturesque views, noting how beautiful the lay of the land was. These comments made their way to the wealthier residents of Kurobe, eventually becoming a topic of local gossip. The original cargo train was absolutely not set up for passengers, making it fairly dangerous, but the rumors of the scenery's beauty rose to such a fever pitch that some of the upper class started to say "I don't care if I die, I just have to see the scenery once in my life!" From that point, the area became a sightseeing destination. With such strong desire to gain access to the Torokko Train, starting so many years ago, it seems like the railway has always been the best way to view the local scenery.
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- Image Source: Kurobe Gorge Railway Official Website
Route Map from Unazuki Station to Keyakidaira Station
The Torokko Train runs a set number of times each day, so it's a good idea to think about how you're going to allot your time before you hop on (check the official timetable). The time between each of the stations is about 20 to 30 minutes, and the price of tickets depends on which kind of car you ride in. We recommend riding in one of the open-air passenger cars, where a one-way ticket from Unazuki Station to Keyakidaira Station will run you 1,980 yen (or 990 yen for children).
A straight shot from Unazuki Station to Keyakidaira Station lasts about an hour and ten minutes, but you can get off at each of the stations in between, and make a whole sightseeing day trip out of it. Let us tell you about some of the most beautiful natural scenery and onsen, and the best photo spots, you'll find at each of the Torokko Train's stations.
- Image Source: Kurobe Gorge Railway Official Website
1. Unazuki Station (宇奈月駅)
Before you even get on the train, there are some cool spots around Unazuki Station!
Just five minutes walk from the station is the Yamabiko Observation Deck, where you can see the orange train and red bridge gleam in the sunlight, as the train passes through some lovely natural scenery.
(If you're carrying around any suitcases or heavy luggage, there are some lockers at the train station that we recommend you use to stash your bags first thing.)
2. Kuronagi Station (黒薙駅)
As we mentioned above, the Unazuki Onsen area is of course known for its onsen, or hot springs. Water reaching temperatures above 90°C (194°F) gush forth from crevices in the ground. Near Kuronagi Station, you’ll find "Kuronagi Onsen" where you can soak in the steaming water while watching the river cut its way through the natural scenery. (Near Kuronagi Station you'll also find Atobiki Bridge, which crosses Kurobe Gorge at its deepest and steepest point.)
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- Kuronagi Onsen, an outdoor open-air hot spring.
- One thing to know about Kuronagi Onsen: it's a mixed-gender hot spring! You're totally welcome to wear a swimsuit in the water, if you feel more comfortable that way, but there will also be people in the nude there. If you'd prefer separate-gender hot springs, there are some indoors at the small ryokan next-door.
(Kuronagi Onsen day pass: adults 700 yen, children 300 yen.)
3. Kanetsuri Station (鐘釣駅)
Near Kanetsuri Station you'll find a river beach where you can dip into the running water and hang out on the sand, so it's especially worth a stop in the summer. Along the river's edge there are even spots where onsen water bubbles up, meaning you can surround one with some rocks and make yourself your own little private hot spring! (This area is just for local lodgers after 16:00.)
This station is also where you'll find the Kurobe Mannen Yuki (万年雪), or “perpetual snow" bank.
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- Kurobe's perpetual snow... also known as the "tiramisu"!
- This time around, the river had flooded from heavy rain and water levels were too high for us to explore the river's beach. Luckily, we still got to see the Kurobe Mannen Yuki, a snowbank that sticks around even through the heat of summer. The dust and debris that falls onto the snowbank really does look a bit like cocoa powder, doesn’t it? Stare long enough, and it starts to look good enough to eat... can you imagine a real tiramisu that big?
4. Keyakidaira Station (欅平駅)
Keyakidaira Station is the biggest of the stations inside the gorge, and inside the station building you can grab a bite to eat while you admire the view, and buy some souvenirs. All around the area are a number of spots with interesting views, and interesting names, making it a good place to take some fun pictures to remember the day by!
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- #okukanebridge
- The Unazuki Onsen area has three kinds of bridges: bridges for transportation, bridges for hydroelectric power, and then bridges for pedestrians. Okukane Bridge (奥鐘橋) is the third variety, and it's there just for you to leisurely walk its length and admire the beautiful scenery of Kurobe Gorge.
The Story Behind Kurobe Tunnel
During that part of the year, the delivery of necessary goods becomes the job of workers called "forwarders" (逓送さん). Even during the most relentless parts of winter, these forwarders hike through the tunnels all the way to their colleagues doing maintenance at the dams, carrying backpacks full of food and other supplies all the way there. Just one way, the trek takes about two hours! To this day, when winter comes, forwarders bring necessities on their own backs, hiking four hours round-trip. We have to say, thank you forwarders!
(The Torokko Train runs from April to November every year.)
Sightseeing in Kurobe: ④ Local Specialties for Foodies
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Japanese Glass Shrimp (白エビ)
These shrimp can only be caught in Toyama Bay, which is why they're sometimes called "The Treasure of Toyama." When deep-fried, they make a satisfyingly crunchy snack that goes great with beer, but you can also find the small shrimp carefully peeled one by one, as delicately sweet and decadent sashimi.
Eating lunch at the Keyakidaira Station food court, we tried the glass shrimp curry. The shrimp lent the curry a lighter and more refreshing feeling than any hearty meat would have.
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Firefly Squid (ホタルイカ)
This variety of small squid can only be sampled in Hyogo or Toyama Prefectures, when in Japan. It can be prepared in lots of ways, including steamed, soy-pickled, stir-fried, and as sashimi. One of these dishes, firefly squid okizuke, is prepared by pickling the squid inside and out in a mix of sake and soy sauce. They say that if you try firefly squid okizuke on white rice, it’s so delicious you won’t need anything else to go with it! In addition, we recommend you try the much rarer dish of firefly squid shabu-shabu hotpot. You can find that particular entree at the ryokan we mentioned before, Unazuki Onsen Togen Ryokan.
⇩ How to enjoy firefly squid shabu-shabu. ⇩
Kurobe's Unazuki Onsen, A Place to Enjoy the Great Outdoors
If all this made you think you'd also like to enjoy Toyama to the fullest, why not try a trip to Kurobe's Unazuki Onsen?
- Basic Info
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Name Unazuki Onsen, Kurobe Address Unazuki Onsen, Kurobe, Toyama Station Unazukionsen Station (宇奈月温泉駅) Website https://www.city.kurobe.toyama.jp/topVisit.aspx