Kuroiso: Bringing New Life to Tochigi

Kuroiso, on the southern edge of the city of Nasu in Tochigi Prefecture, served as a gateway to the Nasu Highlands for many years, until the Tohoku Shinkansen started running and visitors began to get off the train at Nasushiobara Station instead. But while through-traffic at Kuroiso Station has slowed down, the area’s own charms have helped maintain a steady flow of visitors, who come to relax and enjoy a little of small-town Japan.

An easy day-trip from Tokyo (less than 2 hours by shinkansen), Tochigi is a great addition to any off-the-beaten-path itinerary in Japan. And between the pioneering coffee shops and the innovative architecture of Nasushiobara’s Miruru Library, the Kuroiso area continues to attract more and more visitors on the hunt for local artisan flair in Nasu.

Miruru Library: Japan’s Most Beautiful Public Library

When exiting JR Kuroiso Station, it’s hard not to notice the uniquely designed building standing next door! This striking structure is Miruru Library, a public library belonging to the city of Nasushiobara, and a newer addition to the city that only opened in 2020. Designed by architect Mari Ito (of UAo), the library attempts to realize the concept of “walking into a forest” through the use of towering rows of wooden bookshelves, huge floor-to-ceiling glass windows, and a cool grey cement floor. The skylights above let in the same dappled light of a sunny clearing, to the point that you wouldn’t be surprised if the book pages began to rustle in the wind at any moment. The result of this careful design is an inviting space sure to tempt visitors to sit down and relax. Book lovers may never want to leave!

Nasushiobara City Library Miruru（那須塩原市図書館みるる）
1-1 Honcho, Nasushiobara, Tochigi (JR Kuroiso Station West Exit)
Phone: +81-287-63-9031
Hours: Tue ~ Fri 10:00 – 21:00 / weekends & holidays: 10:00 – 18:00 / closed Mondays
Access: 1 min from JR Kuroiso Station
Official Website (jp)

1988 Cafe Shozo: An Icon of Japanese Coffee History

The local Kuroiso coffee shop “1988 Cafe Shozo” is a cultural pioneer that helped start a coffee boom in Japan, and the cafe is still highly esteemed within the nation’s coffee industry, helping to establish Kuroiso as a destination for coffee lovers from all over Japan (and beyond). The two-story building was originally an apartment building, abandoned during Japan’s economic bubble, and cafe owner Shozo Kikuchi took advantage of all the building materials lying around to repurpose the old scrap and transform the wasted space into a stylish new coffee shop. When asked in an interview on Project Design Online, Kikuchi explained that after he himself had traveled around the country in search of nice shops and cafes, he decided to open one himself. He believed that “A ‘nice city’ is bound to become a travel destination, and that’s where you’re bound to find a nice cafe.”

1988 Cafe Shozo
6-6 Takasagocho, Nasushiobara, Tochigi
Phone: +81-287-63-9833
Hours: 11:00 – 18:30 (LO 18:00) / see calendar for more
Access: 11 min from JR Kuroiso Station
Official Website (jp)

Nordfeld Leather: The Workshop of a Tochigi Leather Craftsman

There’s nothing else quite like hand-crafted leather goods, from the unique smell to the materials that deepen in color throughout the years. There’s a warm feeling that emanates from each stitch and rivet, added by hand to perfect the design. Within Japan, Tochigi is famous for high-quality leather goods, and the Tochigi leather artisan workshop at Nordfeld is a Kuroiso destination that fans of leather goods shouldn’t miss. The small shop is stuffed with items carefully crafted by the owner Kei Kitano, including small items like key rings and business card cases (a must-have in Japan), as well as a variety of timelessly stylish leather bags and backpacks with a hint of retro flair. While you’re shopping, you can even take a peek at the leather workshop, where you can see Kitano hard at work!

Influenced by his grandfather, Kei Kitano knew at a young age that he wanted to become a craftsman, and a leather bag that he used for years since his school days became his entry into leatherwork. For 11 years, Kitano perfected his skills at the popular Japanese leather goods brand HERZ, and in 2017 he decided to take a chance on his very own business. Leaving the hustle and bustle of Tokyo, the leather expert chose to open his studio in Tochigi, establishing the new Nordfeld brand. Now, Kitano himsel designs and produces each of the products he sells at Nordfeld, one by one, using Italian leather to create items with a soft feel and a classic look.

Why Kuroiso? Kitano explained that “although Kuroiso is very quiet compared to Tokyo, it’s full of lively people,” and that contrast is what drew him to the city. This town in the countryside felt like the perfect place to set up a workshop, and an even better place for Kitano’s work to stand out from the crowd.

Nordfeld
8-40 Yutakacho, Nasushiobara, Tochigi
Phone: +81-287-74-3735
Hours: 12:00 – 17:00 / closed Wed, Thur
Access: 10 min from JR Kuroiso Station
Official Website (jp) | Instagram

Chus: Kurosio Shopping, Dining, and Lodgings, All in One

Nasu’s mountain springs and green pastures make it a farmer’s paradise, and the area is known for its delicious food, including dairy products. If you want to take a look at what this region has to offer, from gourmet treats to local handicrafts, you can’t go wrong with a trip to Chus. A key destination for travelers passing through Kuroiso, Chus started as a local market before establishing the permanent facilities we see today. Now the building offers food, shopping, and accommodations, all based around a core concept of “food culture.” Try a taste of local Nasu ingredients, stay the night on the second floor, and then pick up a few souvenirs to bring home!

Chus（チャウス）
6-3 Takasagocho, Nasushiobara, Tochigi
Phone: +81-287-74-5156
Hours: 8:00 – 21:00
   (breakfast 8:00 – 10:30 / lunch 11:30 – 14:30 / dinner 18:00 – 20:30)
   closed 2nd Thur of the month
   early close 2nd Wed of the month (~17:00)
Access: 11 min from JR Kuroiso Station
Official Website (jp) | Room Reservations

Add a Peaceful Visit to Nasu to Your Japan Trip

In the past, Higashi-Nasuno Station was a small station that express trains passed right by. But when the Tohoku Shinkansen started running, Higashi-Nasuno became Nasushiobara Station, and replaced Kuroiso Station as the new “gateway to the Nasu area.” (It’s also the closest station to the Nasu Imperial Palace, so there’s a dedicated reception room for the royal family right in the station, and a special reserved exit for their use!) But the “old gateway to Nasu,” Kuroiso, is still around – and still worth a visit. Take the JR Tohoku Shinkansen to Nasushiobara Station (about 70 min from Tokyo), and transfer to the JR Utsunomiya Line (Tohoku Main Line) to get to Kuroiso Station. A little dose of small-town Japan is waiting!

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