2020.06.04

Ancient Japanese Cheese Has Been Making a Modern Comeback on the Internet

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Quarantining at home, people around Japan have gotten creative in the kitchen.

Image Source: @DIME

Wait, Japan Has Been Eating Cheese Since Ancient Times?

Think about traditional Japanese cuisine, and what comes to mind? Is it dairy? While that might be pretty low on your list, it turns out Japan has been making its own cheese-like dairy product since even before the Nara period (710 – 794 CE). The process, a bit different from the curdled milk cheese found in other parts of the world, was brought over from Baekje in Korea around the year 560.

Instagram에서 이 게시물 보기

武藤彩(@ayamuto.iro)님의 공유 게시물님, 2020 3월 17 12:27오전 PDT

Japanese \”So\” Is Back on the Scene

The ancient Japanese dairy product we're talking about is called "so" (蘇), and since it's made by through a process of evaporating the moisture out of milk, it's compared to condensed milk or cheese. It's said that when it was eaten in the Heian period (794-1185), they would take 18L of milk and boil it down to just 1.8 liters of so. The luxurious nature of the food is probably why it was generally reserved for special occasions, like feasts or Buddhist events, and sometimes even used as medicine.

Instagram에서 이 게시물 보기

えっか(@ekka_shiotsuki)님의 공유 게시물님, 2020 3월 13 7:01오후 PDT

Why Now?

With over 1000 years of history, why has so become trendy now in 2020? Well, 2020 isn't just any year, and the unusual circumstances we're all working with have certainly contributed to so's popularity. That's because making so takes a lot of time, and a lot of attention. While we've seen a huge explosion in at-home bread baking all over the world, among a small pocket of Japanese cooks, so has been all the buzz.

The recipe itself is very simple, for any home chefs who are itching to try ancient Japanese cheese. Pour 2 liters of milk into a frying pan, bring it to a boil, and stir constantly for about two hours. When enough moisture has boiled off and it's developed some elasticity, the so can be kneaded into shape and wrapped securely in plastic, and after a day firming in the fridge it will be ready to eat. It takes a lot of time, a lot of patience, and a lot of milk.

蘇チャレンジ！ pic.twitter.com/uymgwK9yP0

— クロ助 (@mgxcr) March 12, 2020

Supporting the Dairy Industry

While plenty of people have been making so just to try out a new culinary option while they have the time, staying home throughout the COVID-19 outbreak, that's not the only reason. The trend may have started as a way to help Japan's dairy farmers. With Japanese elementary and middle schools shut down due to coronavirus, many dairy farmers have a huge surplus of milk that they can't sell fast enough, resulting in serious losses. Twitter user @bokumike started this "So Challenge" to give people around the country a good reason to buy large amounts of milk, and a fun way to use it. After the challenge was retweeted by the Japanese Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, the rest was history.

According to those who committed the two hours and two liters of milk, the end result has a mildly sweet, cheesy flavor, and goes well with lots of toppings. Got two hours to kill and two liters of milk at your disposal? Make your own so and let us know how it goes, on the Japankuru twitter, instagram, and facebook!

(⇩ Below, @bokumike has some recommendations for how to eat your so: drizzled with honey; topped with olive oil, salt, and pepper then served with prosciutto; sliced thin on crackers and topped with jam, spinach, or other veggies; tossed with fruity acerola honey and mixed nuts; mixed (while still in the pan) into rum raisin so; pan-fried and topped with garlic/parsley, miso-preserved vegetables, or brown sugar syrup!)

やってみた蘇の食べ方
(作りたてより1日くらいラップに包んで冷蔵庫で寝かせた方がおいしい)

・蜂蜜がけ
・オリーブ油と塩胡椒と生ハム
・クラッカーにのせてジャム、ほうれん草のおひたし等
・アセロラ蜂蜜とミックスナッツ和え
・ラムレーズン蘇
・焼き蘇(にんにくパセリ、味噌漬け、黒蜜がけ) pic.twitter.com/kFnWG0hG9c

— ミケ太郎 (@bokumike) April 21, 2020

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- HIROSHIMA
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  Hiroshima Prefecture has everything, from world heritage sites to beautiful nature and delicious local cuisine, and it's either an hour and a half from Tokyo by plane, or four hours by train. Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima Island and the Atomic Bomb Dome, two Hiroshima UNESCO sites, are famous around the world, but in Japan it's also famous for food. Seafood from the Seto Inland Sea, especially oysters, Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki, and Setouchi lemons are all popular, and the natural scenery alone is worth seeing.
- SHIKOKU
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  On the other side of the Seto Inland Sea opposite Japan’s main island, Shikoku (四国) is a region made up of four prefectures: Ehime, Kagawa, Kochi, and Tokushima. The area is famous for its udon (in Kagawa), and the beautiful Dogo Onsen hot springs (in Ehime).
- KAGAWA
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  Kagawa Prefecture is on the northern part of the island of Shikoku, facing Japan's main island and the Seto Inland Sea. It's known for being the smallest prefecture in Japan, by area, but at the same time Kagawa is called the "Udon Prefecture" thanks to its famous sanuki udon. Aside from Kotohiragu Shrine and Ritsurin Garden, the prefecture's small islands are popular, and Kagawa is full of unique destinations, like Angel Road. They say that if you lay eyes on Zenigata Sunae, a huge Kagawa sand painting, you'll never have money troubles ever again.
- KYUSHU
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  Located in the most southwestern part of Japan, Kyushu (九州) is an island of 7 prefectures: Fukuoka, Saga, Nagasaki, Kumamoto, Oita, Miyazaki, and Kagoshima. The island's unique culture has been influenced by Chinese and Dutch trade, along with missionaries coming in through Nagasaki's port. Modern-day travelers love the lush natural scenery and fresh food, plus the natural hot springs found all throughout the area (thanks to volcanic activity)!
- FUKUOKA
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  Fukuoka Prefecture has the highest population on the southern island of Kyushu, with two major cities: Fukuoka and Kitakyushu. Thanks to growing transportation networks, Fukuoka is more accessible than ever, and so are the many local attractions. On top of historical spots like Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, travelers shouldn't miss Fukuoka's food scene, with motsu nabe (offal hotpot), mentaiko (spicy cod roe), and famous Hakata ramen―best eaten from a food stall in the Nakasu area of Hakata. Plus, it's full of all sorts of destinations for travelers, like trendy shopping centers, and the beautiful nature of Itoshima and Yanagawa.
- KAGOSHIMA
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  Kagoshima Prefecture played a major role in Japan's modernization as a backdrop for famous historical figures like samurais Saigo Takamori and Okubo Toshimichi, who pushed Japan out of the Edo era and into the Meiji. Because of that, Sengan-en Garden is just one of many historical destinations, and when it comes to attractions Kagoshima has plenty: the active volcano of Sakurajima, popular hot springs Ibusuki Onsen and Kirishima Onsen, World Heritage Site Yakushima Island, even what Japan calls the "island closest to heaven," Amami Oshima. Kagoshima might be found on the very southernmost tip of the southern island of Kyushu, but there's plenty to see.
- OKINAWA
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  The island chain of Okinawa (沖縄) makes up the southernmost tip of Japan, which is why it's also the most tropical area in the country. Thanks to a history of independence and totally distinct political and cultural events, Okinawa has a unique culture, and remnants of the Ryukyu Kingdom are still visible all over the islands. Food, language, traditional dress, it's all a little different! It's also said to be the birthplace of karate.