
Eating on trains is usually taboo in Japan, but if you’ve ever taken Japan’s bullet trains, you’ll know that train station bentos, eaten on the shinkansen, hold a special status. The ekiben is a beloved part of Japanese culture, and the Japan Railway Group is now working with ekiben producers to have these boxed meals sold at train stations recognized as an intangible cultural asset, in an effort to protect a tradition they say is fading fast. With high-speed rail travel and convenience stores changing eating habits, ekiben makers have dropped to about one-fifth of their peak, raising fears the culture could disappear.

Supporters argue that ekiben are more than travel food – they help to preserve local recipes, ingredients, and regional cooking methods, giving passengers a convenient window into local food culture as they travel. The campaign also comes as the concept of the ekiben marks its 140th anniversary, a chance for JR and ekiben producers to spotlight the meals’ historical role in rail travel and regional identity.
The preservation push was initiated in 2023 by Yoshifumi Okuyama of JR West, inspired by a remark comparing Hiroshima’s locally distinctive ekiben to uniform convenience-store bento. Okuyama researched the tradition and proposed heritage recognition, and the idea was later adopted by the Cultural Affairs Agency.

It may not be obvious to passengers who see the ekiben shops full of options at major train stations, but the decline in ekiben culture has been steep. As trains stop for shorter times, platform vendors vanished, and ingredient costs rise, membership of ekiben maker associations has fallen from roughly 400 companies in 1967 to 82 today. Some longtime favorites have already fallen by the wayside, including Hiroshima Ekibento’s popular oyster-based “Shamoji Kakimeshi,” discontinued in 2024 due to cost pressures.

Still, major producers such as Yokohama’s Kiyoken and others have joined the effort, alongside JR companies nationwide. Stations are beginning to display ekiben history panels and regional food information, with JR hoping the meals can once again help draw travelers to local stops and keep a beloved train travel tradition alive.
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