Secrets of San’in | Meet Japan’s Shinto Gods at Izumo Taisha and Inasanohama
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It’s said that the gods of Japan gather each year in Izumo, so make sure to go and meet them while you’re there!
The San'in region on Japan's western coast, facing the Sea of Japan, has long been a central part of Japan's myths and sacred stories. And at the heart of this region is the city of Izumo, a city on the sea that generations upon generations of Japanese people have believed to be a place close to otherworldly things, sometimes calling it the realm of the gods. For those with an interest in the mysticism of Japan's past and the legends of Japan's ancient Shinto religion, Izumo is a city worth seeing.
Central to Izumo's importance is the belief that it is a gathering place for the gods of Japan, and legend says that all eight million gods of the Shinto pantheon arrive in the city from all over Japan each year to meet, and decide the fate of the people of Japan for the coming year. This important discussion lasts for the entire 10th month of the ancient lunar calendar (modern-day November), leading most of Japan to call the month "kannazuki" (神無月/month without gods)―of course, the people in Shimane are inundated with gods during this period, and so they call it "kamiaruzuki" (神在月/month with gods). For these millions of gods who come together to make plans for Japan, the obvious place for their meeting is the Grand Shrine of Izumo, often called Izumo Taisha (出雲大社).
Izumo Taisha is one of the oldest shrines in Japan, with well over a thousand years of history. Its ancient past was even described in the Kojiki and Nihon Shoki, Japan's oldest historical records. Of course the shrine is home to eight million gods for a month each fall, but for the rest of the year, the majestic Izumo Taisha enshrines Shinto gods of matchmaking and prosperity, which means that on top of the crowds of sightseers who visit the shrine each day, it's also frequented by couples who arrive at the shrine to pray for happiness together (or singles hoping for a little extra luck in the love department)!
For travelers visiting Izumo Taisha, it's worth keeping in mind that the procedure for praying at this shrine is just a little different from most Shinto shrines! At most shrines, prayers start with two bows to show respect, two claps to draw the gods' attention, and then a final bow showing appreciation after you've finished with your prayers. At the Grand Shrine of Izumo, you make your two bows, and then clap a total of four times before praying and bowing one last time!
When it comes to appearances, Izumo Taisha is particularly famous for the enormous braided shimenawa ropes (しめ縄) that decorate the main shrine buildings, marking off the boundary between the everyday world and the realm of the gods. The shrine's haiden (拝殿), which is the front building seen first when entering the shrine, has a shimenawa rope that would blow away most shrines around Japan, but the true photo-op is in front of the nearby kagura-den (神楽殿), a sanctuary built for traditional dance and rituals.
Hanging overhead as you pass under the kagura-den's roof, this mammoth shimenawa is so big that it takes a whole year for experts to construct it out of rice straw. These pros twist together hundreds of smaller straw ropes and bind them together with more sheets of straw, finally forming the huge rope that has become a symbol of the shrine. After a number of years, the shimenawa weakens under its own weight, and if left too long it could even be a danger for shrine-goers walking below. To avoid any risk, the shrine replaces it as soon as they see any signs of weakness, every five to seven years or so. Visitors have nothing to fear as they approach the majestic shrine, praying for good fortune and maybe a little romance!
Izumo Taisha Shrine (出雲大社)
195 Taishacho Kizukihigashi, Izumo, Shimane
Hours: 8:30 – 17:00
Official Website (jp)
While the gods spend the month hashing things out at Izumo Taisha each year, they don't actually head straight to the shrine when they arrive in Izumo, or so the story goes. Legend says that the initial meeting point for all those gods is actually nearby Inasanohama Beach (alternatively Inasa Beach, or just Inasanohama/稲佐の浜). Each fall, the joyous reunion of the gods is said to take place on this sandy beach just down the road from the famous Hinomisaki, and so the human celebrations that accompany the Shinto event also start from Inasanohama Beach each year.
Despite its importance in the realm of Shinto mythology, Inasanohama could be any old beach in Japan, except for one rather striking landmark. Sitting on the edge of the water is a lone enormous rock that towers overhead, called Bentenjima (弁天島). The tall little island of stone on the sandy shore is accented with a small Shinto shrine, complete with its own little shrine gate, tucked into the edge of the rock face. Backlit by the setting sun each evening, it's the perfect place to spend the evening in Izumo, celebrating together with the gods and enjoying the beautiful view.
Inasanohama Beach (稲佐の浜)
2711 Taishacho Kizukikita, Izumo, Shimane
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NAME:Izumo, Shimane (島根県出雲市)
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HIROSHIMA
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Hiroshima Prefecture has everything, from world heritage sites to beautiful nature and delicious local cuisine, and it's either an hour and a half from Tokyo by plane, or four hours by train. Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima Island and the Atomic Bomb Dome, two Hiroshima UNESCO sites, are famous around the world, but in Japan it's also famous for food. Seafood from the Seto Inland Sea, especially oysters, Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki, and Setouchi lemons are all popular, and the natural scenery alone is worth seeing.
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SHIKOKU
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On the other side of the Seto Inland Sea opposite Japan’s main island, Shikoku (四国) is a region made up of four prefectures: Ehime, Kagawa, Kochi, and Tokushima. The area is famous for its udon (in Kagawa), and the beautiful Dogo Onsen hot springs (in Ehime).
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KAGAWA
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Kagawa Prefecture is on the northern part of the island of Shikoku, facing Japan's main island and the Seto Inland Sea. It's known for being the smallest prefecture in Japan, by area, but at the same time Kagawa is called the "Udon Prefecture" thanks to its famous sanuki udon. Aside from Kotohiragu Shrine and Ritsurin Garden, the prefecture's small islands are popular, and Kagawa is full of unique destinations, like Angel Road. They say that if you lay eyes on Zenigata Sunae, a huge Kagawa sand painting, you'll never have money troubles ever again.
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KYUSHU
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Located in the most southwestern part of Japan, Kyushu (九州) is an island of 7 prefectures: Fukuoka, Saga, Nagasaki, Kumamoto, Oita, Miyazaki, and Kagoshima. The island's unique culture has been influenced by Chinese and Dutch trade, along with missionaries coming in through Nagasaki's port. Modern-day travelers love the lush natural scenery and fresh food, plus the natural hot springs found all throughout the area (thanks to volcanic activity)!
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FUKUOKA
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Fukuoka Prefecture has the highest population on the southern island of Kyushu, with two major cities: Fukuoka and Kitakyushu. Thanks to growing transportation networks, Fukuoka is more accessible than ever, and so are the many local attractions. On top of historical spots like Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, travelers shouldn't miss Fukuoka's food scene, with motsu nabe (offal hotpot), mentaiko (spicy cod roe), and famous Hakata ramen―best eaten from a food stall in the Nakasu area of Hakata. Plus, it's full of all sorts of destinations for travelers, like trendy shopping centers, and the beautiful nature of Itoshima and Yanagawa.
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KAGOSHIMA
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Kagoshima Prefecture played a major role in Japan's modernization as a backdrop for famous historical figures like samurais Saigo Takamori and Okubo Toshimichi, who pushed Japan out of the Edo era and into the Meiji. Because of that, Sengan-en Garden is just one of many historical destinations, and when it comes to attractions Kagoshima has plenty: the active volcano of Sakurajima, popular hot springs Ibusuki Onsen and Kirishima Onsen, World Heritage Site Yakushima Island, even what Japan calls the "island closest to heaven," Amami Oshima. Kagoshima might be found on the very southernmost tip of the southern island of Kyushu, but there's plenty to see.
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OKINAWA
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The island chain of Okinawa (沖縄) makes up the southernmost tip of Japan, which is why it's also the most tropical area in the country. Thanks to a history of independence and totally distinct political and cultural events, Okinawa has a unique culture, and remnants of the Ryukyu Kingdom are still visible all over the islands. Food, language, traditional dress, it's all a little different! It's also said to be the birthplace of karate.
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