Ahhh, Kyoto. City of temples, shrines, quaint traditional alleys and… cafes? That’s right, this old-fashioned city continues to grow and expand as time moves forward, and part of that has been a boom in cafe culture. Spend some time downtown, especially around Sanjo Street (a gathering place for the young and chic, just north of the major Shijo Street) and you’ll find a wealth of cool places to stop in, plop down, and a good cup of tea or coffee with maybe a bite to eat. It’s a great place to find well-brewed coffee, satisfying tasty lunches, and sweet snacks perfect for an afternoon pick-me-up. After living in the Sanjo area for more than a year, I’ve got some recommendations!
A seat near either the front or back windows will provide you with calming views of the stone-paved alleys, amply decorated with trees and other greenery. Sit down with a friend for a while and luxuriate in the cake and coffee!
Cafe Quarirengue
74-4 Yanagihachimancho, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto
11:30 – 18:00 (L.O. 17:00)
Closed: Tue, Wed
Climb up a flight of stairs, open a creaky old door, and you've arrived at Cafe Kocsi. This little cafe is known for excellent bread, so a sandwich with your tea or coffee isn't a bad idea. They also offer some more robust food options, along with sweet bready snacks.
The most noticeable aspect of the cozy atmosphere is probably the shelves and shelves of books, which separate seating sections and line the counters. For those working on their Japanese, an hour or two browsing the selection and paging through a few choice volumes makes for a pretty pleasant afternoon. Of course, you can always bring a book of your own to read while you relax there, instead.
Cafe Kocsi
123 Fukunagacho, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto
Mon~Wed: 15:00 – 23:00/Fri~Sun: 12:00 – 23:00
Closed: Thu
Paul is pretty popular, but with a little luck there's usually a table or two open. If the place is really packed, your heart isn't really set on French baked goods, and you just want a tasty meal, you can always head to CoLLabo upstairs! Paul sits on the ground floor of a multi-story building called Ducemix, which is home to quite a few interesting businesses. Wander up a few floors and you'll find artisan workshops, small gift shops, and Gallery Cafe & Bar CoLLabo, another solid cafe.
Excellent Mochi & Dango Right Nearby
Just a stall stuck in the side of a building, with a small stool or two, you can't exactly call this place a cafe… but Kyoto is the home of mitarashi dango, my favorite Japanese sweet, and this shop makes some of the best!
Mitarashi dango are chewy rice dumplings, usually toasted on a grill and then dipped in the vitally important sauce, a sweetened and slightly caramelized soy sauce concoction. If you've ever enjoyed salted caramel, you might get why this stuff is so delectable. The shop that claims to be the original creator of mitarashi dango is further north in Kyoto, near Shimogamo Shrine, but my favorite little hole in the wall is right off of Shijo Street (a few minutes walk south of Sanjo Street, where the cafes are clustered).
You can't see it on google maps (not even street view), but follow the map above, walk into what looks like a shoe shop on Shijo Street and you'll see a path into the back alley, where this salty-sweet treat awaits you. They'll make them fresh for you, and serve the dango with a little cup of tea for you to enjoy right then and there. You can also grab a few premade mochi delights to take home.
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I came to Japan for a semester abroad, and I've been here ever since, so I guess I just can't get enough of the place. Tell me all the cool Japan-related things you know on instagram or twitter @japankuru !
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