Find Japan’s Original Grilled Unagi Eel in Saitama
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Rich in flavor, savory and a little sweet – unagi kabayaki, or grilled eel, has been understandably popular in Japan for hundreds of years. The dish’s expert origins, however, lay in Saitama Prefecture, just northwest of Tokyo. With our interest piqued and our mouths watering, we headed to the Urawa neighborhood of Saitama City to find out more.
What is Unagi Kabayaki?
Eel has been popular in Japan for many years, and in the past few decades there have even been times when 70% of the world's eel catch was eaten in Japan. It's especially ubiquitous in summer, when certain days are essentially designated eel days. Japan takes the advice of an Edo period doctor, and people eat eel to, supposedly, stay healthy through the months of heat.
The most common preparation of unagi (うなぎ), or river eel, is called "kabayaki" (蒲焼), where it's grilled and glazed with a sweet sauce. That might sound simple enough, but don't let the short description fool you. It's a fairly laborious process! The eel is carefully gutted and deboned, before it's butterflied and cut into shorter, more practical pieces. Then comes the good part, when the eel fillets are stuck onto wooden skewers, broiled on a charcoal grill, dipped into the soy-sauce based glaze, and grilled some more to cook in the flavor and add texture. The result is both tender and flaky unagi, with satisfyingly crispy edges and a deep, satisfying flavor.
The History of This Delicious Eel Dish
& Unagi Kabayaki Today
Similar styles of grilled eel might have popped up here and there around Japan, but Saitama's glazed variety is now the standard across the country. Back in Edo times (1603 – 1868), the Urawa area of what is now Saitama City was marshy, and laced with rivers abundant in fish. The eels were originally caught by casual fishers, hobbyists and those out on the riverbanks for pleasure. But the distinct texture of the eel started a local following, and Urawa's chefs developed their decadently delicious grilled eel recipes, resulting in unagi kabayaki. Not far from the area, the Nakasendo Trail (one of Japan's historic main roads, which we've written about before) brought travelers into the area. It's said that sometimes those going along the Nakasendo would journey out of their way just to try the increasingly famous unagi, so we can probably thank the historic highway for spreading the recipe near and far, as well!
Thanks to rice paddy cultivation in the early 20th century, and then eventual encroaching urbanization, the eel population of the Urawa area of Saitama isn't what it used to be. But that hasn't diminished the culture of excellent local eel chefs, who train for years to make the perfect kabayaki. Replete with satisfying grill marks, glistening with sweet soy glaze, the butterflied eels of Saitama are just begging to be laid over a bed of fresh white rice and placed in front of a waiting diner!
So whether you're in Saitama for the Rugby World Cup this year, touring the best spots in the prefecture, or just taking a day trip from Tokyo, we recommend you make a stop in Saitama City to try Japan's best eel! There are shops all over the Urawa neighborhood that still specialize in the dish, so just drop in and find the busiest eel eatery. You won't regret it – we sure didn't.
Details
NAME:Saitama Unagi no Kabayaki
MAP
ACCESS:Urawa Station
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Located in the most southwestern part of Japan, Kyushu (九州) is an island of 7 prefectures: Fukuoka, Saga, Nagasaki, Kumamoto, Oita, Miyazaki, and Kagoshima. The island's unique culture has been influenced by Chinese and Dutch trade, along with missionaries coming in through Nagasaki's port. Modern-day travelers love the lush natural scenery and fresh food, plus the natural hot springs found all throughout the area (thanks to volcanic activity)!
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FUKUOKA
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Fukuoka Prefecture has the highest population on the southern island of Kyushu, with two major cities: Fukuoka and Kitakyushu. Thanks to growing transportation networks, Fukuoka is more accessible than ever, and so are the many local attractions. On top of historical spots like Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, travelers shouldn't miss Fukuoka's food scene, with motsu nabe (offal hotpot), mentaiko (spicy cod roe), and famous Hakata ramen―best eaten from a food stall in the Nakasu area of Hakata. Plus, it's full of all sorts of destinations for travelers, like trendy shopping centers, and the beautiful nature of Itoshima and Yanagawa.
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KAGOSHIMA
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Kagoshima Prefecture played a major role in Japan's modernization as a backdrop for famous historical figures like samurais Saigo Takamori and Okubo Toshimichi, who pushed Japan out of the Edo era and into the Meiji. Because of that, Sengan-en Garden is just one of many historical destinations, and when it comes to attractions Kagoshima has plenty: the active volcano of Sakurajima, popular hot springs Ibusuki Onsen and Kirishima Onsen, World Heritage Site Yakushima Island, even what Japan calls the "island closest to heaven," Amami Oshima. Kagoshima might be found on the very southernmost tip of the southern island of Kyushu, but there's plenty to see.
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OKINAWA
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The island chain of Okinawa (沖縄) makes up the southernmost tip of Japan, which is why it's also the most tropical area in the country. Thanks to a history of independence and totally distinct political and cultural events, Okinawa has a unique culture, and remnants of the Ryukyu Kingdom are still visible all over the islands. Food, language, traditional dress, it's all a little different! It's also said to be the birthplace of karate.
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