3 Retro Tokyo Cafes to Check Out Along the Yamanote Line
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After falling in love with soda floats, I’ve made it a mission to find the best in Tokyo, leading me to these three classic Japanese coffee shops.
Retro Cafes Are on Fire, and Interest Won’t Be Cooling Any Time Soon
Just about anything retro-cool has been trendy among Japan's younger generations in recent years, and one obvious sign of this particular trend is the popularity of Japan's old-fashioned cafes and coffee shops, especially any shop with Showa-retro vibes – hearkening back to the fashions of mid-20th century Japan. A different experience from your standard coffee chain, or even Japan's many stylish modern cafes, the public has taken an interest in the unique atmospheres and menu items of these retro spots, inspiring plenty of shops to reach back into their history and make the old new again. Here are three of Tokyo's most popular retro cafes, found on my recent soda-float journeys, all three of which happen to be conveniently located along the JR Yamanote Line!
Ueno: Ojo Coffee (珈琲王城)
Located just behind the Marui Department Store that sits across from Ueno Station, Ojo Coffee is one of the most well-known old-fashioned coffee shops in the neighborhood. Back before the days of modern communication technology, this cozy coffee shop just steps from Ueno Station was an important meeting place, and even after many years and some renovations, it still maintains an air of vintage elegance, with its chandeliers and damask-upholstered seating.
In recent years, parfaits piled high with whipped cream have helped Ojo gain a presence online, and other light meals like egg sandwiches and thick toast have also found praise. Of course, during my recent visit, I stayed loyal to my go-to retro cafe choices: a melon soda float (クリームソーダ) and Japan's classic ketchupy spaghetti napolitan (ナポリタン), a combo which has never let me down so far. The drink came in a simple, rounded glass, and the Maraschino cherry adds a bright accent to the vanilla ice cream and melon soda. The cafe's special spaghetti napolitan is hearty, too, and is especially delicious with a sprinkle of parmesan on top.
Ojo Coffee, with its reputation and extremely convenient location, often has a line forming out front throughout the day on weekends. I recommend you avoid peak meal and cafe hours, or just visit on a weekday, to avoid a long wait! (All seats at Ojo are now non-smoking, as well – still somewhat uncommon at Japan's more old-fashioned establishments.)
Ojo Coffee (珈琲王城)
6-8-15 Ueno, Taito City, Tokyo
Access: 2 min from Ueno Station (JR/Tokyo Metro) or 3 min from Keisei Ueno Station
Hours: 8:00 – 19:00
Official Twitter
Shinjuku: L’ambre (名曲・珈琲 らんぶる)
Not far from Shinjuku San-chome, this famous music cafe takes up a surprisingly large space underground, in an atmosphere sometimes compared to a high-class hotel lobby. L'ambre opened its doors in 1950, which means the retro cafe has been a popular Shinjuku cafe for more than 70 years now, and the atmosphere feels like it hasn't changed much in all that time. The booths, chairs, tables, and decorations all call back to and era decades past, and the shop still plays the same classical music for customers to enjoy as they dine. It's a beloved hideaway for many long-time Shinjuku residents.
The food menu at L'ambre is mainly focused on sandwiches and thick-cut toast, alongside sweet options like parfaits and slices of cake. But of course, as a diehard soda float + spaghetti fan, I ordered another melon soda float, this time with spaghetti bolognese. As it turns out… you might be better off ordering their popular toast or sandwiches after all. But in any case, the shop is definitely worth a visit for anyone who likes their cafes to come with a real sense of history. (The cafe is mostly non-smoking, although some floor allow smoking at some times.)
L'ambre (名曲・珈琲 らんぶる)
3-31-3 Shinjuku, Shinjuku City, Tokyo
Access: 2 min from Shinjuku-sanchome Station (Tokyo Metro), or 3 min from Shinjuku Station
Hours: 9:00 – 18:00
More Information (jp)
Takadanobaba: Cafe Roman (喫茶ロマン)
The first time I heard about Roman was when I was watching the Japanese drama People Who Do Not Rent, starring Takahisa Masuda. At the beginning of the very first episode, there's a scene where characters drink soda floats on the vinyl booths next to the cafe's huge windows, and I immediately went to google to find out where the scene had been filmed. It turned out to be Roman, which has apparently found its way into some other Japanese dramas as well, and has even served as a backdrop for a photoshoot with famous actress Akiko Kikuchi. From the scene in the drama, I always assumed that the huge windows were looking right out onto the sidewalk, but it turns out that Roman is actually on the second floor! It's a long, narrow space, with a quiet atmosphere. Unfortunately, visiting for lunch, the window seats were all full and I ended up at a normal table.
Cafe Roman opened in 1969, and it has a casual family-run vibe to go with the retro style. Personally, I couldn't help but find myself impressed by the elegantly dressed woman who seems to run the shop. The food and drinks – the standard melon soda float and spaghetti napolitan – were pretty good, at about the same level as Ojo Coffee (although the cherry on top was a little less red, which was a pity).
I only later found out that you can make reservations at Cafe Roman, so if you're hoping for a seat by one of those fantastic windows, I'd recommend calling ahead! (Smoking is allowed throughout the cafe, so it's not open to minors.)
Cafe Roman (喫茶ロマン)
1-18-11 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku City, Tokyo
Access: 1 min from Takadanobaba Station (JR/Seibu)
Hours: 11:30 – 21:00
Official Instagram
Details
NAME:Tokyo Coffee Shops
Japankuru's head Chinese editor: mid-30s, likes to write, draw, and take photos. Aiming to become an old aunty with a girlish look. Articles written in Chinese by Lucy Wu, and translated by Sophia Appelbaum.
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Niseko is about two hours from New Chitose Airport, in the western part of Hokkaido. It's one of Japan's most noted winter resort areas, and a frequent destination for international visitors. That's all because of the super high-quality powder snow, which wins the hearts of beginners and experts alike, bringing them back for repeat visits. That's not all, though, it's also a great place to enjoy Hokkaido's culinary scene and some beautiful onsen (hot springs).
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Niigata is a prefecture on Japan's main island of Honshu, situated right on the coast of the Sea of Japan, and abundant with the gifts of nature. It's known for popular ski resorts such as Echigo-Yuzawa, Japanese national parks, and natural hot spring baths, plus local products like fresh seafood, rice, and sake. Visitors often spend time in the prefectural capital, Niigata City, or venture across the water to Sado Island.
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Shizuoka Prefecture is sandwiched between eastern and western Japan, giving the prefecture easy access to both Tokyo and Osaka. Not only is it known for beautiful natural attractions, with everything from Mount Fuji to Suruga Bay, Lake Hamanako, and Sumata Pass―Shizuoka's Izu Peninsula is known as a go-to spot for hot springs lovers, with famous onsen like Atami, Ito, Shimoda, Shuzenji, and Dogashima. Shizuoka attracts all kinds of travelers thanks to historic connections with the Tokugawa clan, the Oigawa Railway, fresh eel cuisine, Hamamatsu gyoza, and famously high-quality green tea.
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KANSAI
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Kansai (関西) is a region that includes Mie, Nara, Wakayama, Kyoto, Osaka, Hyogo, and Shiga Prefectures. Kansai contained Japan's ancient capital for hundreds of years, and it's making a comeback as one of the most popular parts of Japan. Kyoto's temples and shrines, Osaka Castle, and the deer of Nara are all considered must-sees. Plus, the people of Kansai are especially friendly, making it a fun place to hang out.
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KYOTO
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Kyoto flourished as the capital of Japan between the years 794 and 1100, becoming a center for poilitics and culture, and to this day it's a great place for close encounters with Japanese history. The cobbled streets of Gion, the atmospheric road to Kiyomizudera Temple, Kinkakuji's golden walls and countless historic attractions, even Arashiyama's Togetsukyo Bridge―Kyoto is a place of many attractions. With new charms to experience throughout the seasons, travelers can't stop themselves from returning again and again.
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NARA
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Nara Prefecture's important history reaches back to 710, a time now called the Nara era, when it was once capital of Japan. Called "Heijo-kyo" during its time as a capital, it's said that nara was once the end of the silk road, leading it to flourish as a uniquely international region and produce important cultural properties of all kinds. To make the most of each season, travelers head to Nara Park, where the Nara deer who wander freely, or climb Mount Yoshino, a famous cherry blossom spot.
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OSAKA
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Osaka is known for friendly (and funny) people, but its history is nothing to laugh at, playing a major part in Toyotomi Hideyoshi's 16th century unification of Japan. Thanks to long years of economic activity, it's one of Japan's biggest cities, and Osaka's popular food culture earned it the nickname "The Kitchen of the Nation." To this day Osaka is the model of western Japan, and alongside historic structures like Osaka Castle, it also has major shopping malls like Umeda's Grand Front Osaka and Tennoji's Abeno Harukas. Osaka is a place to eat, eat, eat, with local specialties like takoyaki, okonomiyaki, and kushi-katsu, and for extra fun, it's home to Universal Studios Japan.
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CHUGOKU
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The Chugoku Region (中国地方) consists of five prefectures: Hiroshima, Okayama, Shimane, Tottori, and Yamaguchi. In Chugoku you’ll find the sand dunes of Tottori, and Hiroshima’s atomic bomb site, plus centers of ancient history like Grand Shrine of Izumo.
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HIROSHIMA
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Hiroshima Prefecture has everything, from world heritage sites to beautiful nature and delicious local cuisine, and it's either an hour and a half from Tokyo by plane, or four hours by train. Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima Island and the Atomic Bomb Dome, two Hiroshima UNESCO sites, are famous around the world, but in Japan it's also famous for food. Seafood from the Seto Inland Sea, especially oysters, Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki, and Setouchi lemons are all popular, and the natural scenery alone is worth seeing.
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SHIKOKU
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On the other side of the Seto Inland Sea opposite Japan’s main island, Shikoku (四国) is a region made up of four prefectures: Ehime, Kagawa, Kochi, and Tokushima. The area is famous for its udon (in Kagawa), and the beautiful Dogo Onsen hot springs (in Ehime).
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KAGAWA
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Kagawa Prefecture is on the northern part of the island of Shikoku, facing Japan's main island and the Seto Inland Sea. It's known for being the smallest prefecture in Japan, by area, but at the same time Kagawa is called the "Udon Prefecture" thanks to its famous sanuki udon. Aside from Kotohiragu Shrine and Ritsurin Garden, the prefecture's small islands are popular, and Kagawa is full of unique destinations, like Angel Road. They say that if you lay eyes on Zenigata Sunae, a huge Kagawa sand painting, you'll never have money troubles ever again.
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KYUSHU
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Located in the most southwestern part of Japan, Kyushu (九州) is an island of 7 prefectures: Fukuoka, Saga, Nagasaki, Kumamoto, Oita, Miyazaki, and Kagoshima. The island's unique culture has been influenced by Chinese and Dutch trade, along with missionaries coming in through Nagasaki's port. Modern-day travelers love the lush natural scenery and fresh food, plus the natural hot springs found all throughout the area (thanks to volcanic activity)!
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FUKUOKA
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Fukuoka Prefecture has the highest population on the southern island of Kyushu, with two major cities: Fukuoka and Kitakyushu. Thanks to growing transportation networks, Fukuoka is more accessible than ever, and so are the many local attractions. On top of historical spots like Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, travelers shouldn't miss Fukuoka's food scene, with motsu nabe (offal hotpot), mentaiko (spicy cod roe), and famous Hakata ramen―best eaten from a food stall in the Nakasu area of Hakata. Plus, it's full of all sorts of destinations for travelers, like trendy shopping centers, and the beautiful nature of Itoshima and Yanagawa.
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KAGOSHIMA
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Kagoshima Prefecture played a major role in Japan's modernization as a backdrop for famous historical figures like samurais Saigo Takamori and Okubo Toshimichi, who pushed Japan out of the Edo era and into the Meiji. Because of that, Sengan-en Garden is just one of many historical destinations, and when it comes to attractions Kagoshima has plenty: the active volcano of Sakurajima, popular hot springs Ibusuki Onsen and Kirishima Onsen, World Heritage Site Yakushima Island, even what Japan calls the "island closest to heaven," Amami Oshima. Kagoshima might be found on the very southernmost tip of the southern island of Kyushu, but there's plenty to see.
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OKINAWA
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The island chain of Okinawa (沖縄) makes up the southernmost tip of Japan, which is why it's also the most tropical area in the country. Thanks to a history of independence and totally distinct political and cultural events, Okinawa has a unique culture, and remnants of the Ryukyu Kingdom are still visible all over the islands. Food, language, traditional dress, it's all a little different! It's also said to be the birthplace of karate.
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