Ishikawa: Traditional Japan, Without the Crowds

The city of Kanazawa may be familiar to experienced travelers thanks to its reputation as a hub of traditional Japanese culture, dotted with picturesque historic streets and decorated with expert craftsmanship. What many people fail to notice, however, is the undeniable appeal of a trip exploring all of Ishikawa Prefecture, through Kanazawa and beyond. Ishikawa is a prefecture steeped in samurai heritage and renowned for its traditional arts of all kinds, and an ideal destination for those who want to explore Japan’s traditional side without the overwhelming crowds of cities like Kyoto. It’s a gleaming jewel among the many hidden gems of Hokuriku – a region nestled against Japan’s western coast, on the Sea of Japan – and infrastructure updates like the extension of the Hokuriku Shinkansen have made the area easier to access than ever. Whether you’re planning your next destination after visiting Tokyo or Kyoto, or looking for an easy trip after experiencing the 2025 Expo in Osaka, the Japan Railways network has really opened the door to the stunning architecture, steaming hot springs, and rich cultural heritage of the Hokuriku region. Use our easy guide to Ishikawa to discover some of the top destinations in Kanazawa and beyond!

How to Get to Ishikawa, Starting With Kanazawa

Japan’s public transportation system is massive and complex, which can make it feel a little daunting to get away from go-to destinations like Tokyo or Kyoto, especially for first-time visitors. Fortunately, it couldn’t be simpler to get to Ishikawa! (Really!) The Hokuriku Shinkansen goes directly from Tokyo Station to Kanazawa Station in just over two and a half hours. It takes just about two and a half hours from Osaka, too, and it’s just one train transfer: take the Limited Express Thunderbird to Tsuruga, and the Hokuriku Shinkansen from there. From Kyoto, it’s the same route, but it’s even closer – just over two hours.

For a great deal on transportation and convenient access to destinations in Ishikawa, we recommend checking out the various rail passes that cover the Hokuriku Region. JR-WEST offers a few different rail passes that are specially designed for international travelers visiting Japan! (They’re exclusively available for foreign passport holders in Japan as “temporary visitors.”)

The first of these passes is the Hokuriku Arch Pass, which is 30,000 yen (for adults) and covers 7 days of free access to a broad arc of transportation between Tokyo and Kansai, and throughout Hokuriku (including Ishikawa). The Hokuriku Arch Pass can be used on the Hokuriku Shinkansen (Tsuruga ⇔ Tokyo) and limited express trains like the Thunderbird, as well as local JR lines, and even a few select non-JR local railway lines. The Hokuriku Arch Pass gives you incredible freedom to move across Japan, and it’s a practical choice if your travel plans include time in Tokyo before or after your trip to Hokuriku!

Our second pass recommendation is the Kansai-Hokuriku Area Pass, a regional JR-WEST RAIL PASS, which works exactly like you might expect from the name. For 19,000 yen, adults gain 7 days of free access to transportation throughout the Kansai and Hokuriku regions, including Sanyo and Hokuriku Shinkansen routes within the regional boundaries, limited express trains like the Thunderbird, local JR lines, and select non-JR local railway lines too. Unlike the Hokuriku Arch Pass, this pass doesn’t include access to Tokyo, but it actually does cover a broader portion of the Kansai region, even including destinations as far as Kurashiki in Okayama. (Plus, it’s even more affordable!) If you’re hoping to make the most of your time in Kansai and Hokuriku and really enjoy the best of western Japan, the Kansai-Hokuriku Area Pass is an incredibly convenient option.

▶︎ You can find details on all of the JR-WEST passes on their official website, including the Hokuriku Arch Pass, the Kansai-Hokuriku Area Pass, and more.

Since the Hokuriku Shinkansen will take you directly to Kanazawa Station, we recommend exploring the city and checking out a few of its most famous sites before traveling deeper into the mountains to see some of the best spots in Ishikawa.

① Higashi Chaya-gai

No place encapsulates Kanazawa’s historic charm like Higashi Chaya-gai, the “Eastern Teahouse District,” which is perhaps the most iconic of the city’s three former entertainment quarters where geisha once performed and entertained guests. The bustling neighborhood still attracts visitors from near and far, but these days many come to see the beautifully preserved teahouses, the elegant wooden facades, and the many traces of Japan’s traditional arts. Many visitors choose to rent a kimono nearby, to blend in with the surroundings, and take some great pictures too! Some of the teahouses, or “chaya,” still host performances, while others have been turned into museums where visitors can learn about geisha life and the performing arts. Quite a few of the historic buildings now house shops and cafes, making it a fun area to wander aimlessly and see what hidden gems you discover. 

If you’re interested in Ishikawa’s famous crafting traditions, you won’t want to miss the Hakuza Hikari-gura during your visit to the Higashi Chaya-gai! This warehouse is entirely covered in gold leaf, making it a truly breathtaking example of one of Kanazawa’s most famous artisan crafts. Keep an eye out for the glimmer of gold, and you’ll find gold leaf on anything and everything in the area, from furnishings to skincare products, and even food. Kanazawa’s glittering gold leaf ice cream is a local favorite!

Higashi Chaya-gai (ひがし茶屋街)
1 Higashiyama, Kanazawa, Ishikawa

Directions: about 10~15 min. by bus from Kanazawa Station

② Kenrokuen Garden

Perhaps the most celebrated garden in Japan, Kenrokuen is one of the “Three Greats,” renowned for balancing the six elements that define landscape gardens in Japan: spaciousness/seclusion, artifice/antiquity, water features/scenic landscapes. Of course, you don’t need to know a thing about landscaping to appreciate the beauty of this traditional Edo-era (1603-1868) garden, and the seasonal beauty it presents throughout the year. Visit in summer to enjoy the verdant greenery, in autumn to see the fiery maple leaves, in winter to see the fluffy blanket of snow illuminated by lanterns into the evening, or brave the springtime crowds to take in the beauty of Japan’s famous cherry blossoms!

Kenrokuen Garden (兼六園)
1 Kenrokumachi, Kanazawa, Ishikawa
Hours: 7:00 – 18:00 (March to early October) | 8:00 – 17:00 (late October to February)
Official Website (en)

Directions: 15 min. on foot from Higashi Chaya-gai, or about 20 min. by bus from Kanazawa Station

▶︎ Just across the street from Kenrokuen lies Kanazawa Castle Park, where you can enjoy even more traditional Japanese gardens, visit the reconstructed 16th-century castle, and stay late to see the grounds illuminated until late in the evening year-round!

Kanazawa Castle Park (金沢城公園)
1-1 Marunouchi, Kanazawa, Ishikawa
Hours: 7:00 – 18:00
Official Website (en)

③ The Kanazawa 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art

Kanazawa’s artistic spirit continues on into the modern day, as is clearly exemplified by the Kanazawa 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art. Outside, the building is one of Kanazawa’s most striking modern landmarks, with a circular, glass-walled design and no main entrance, which symbolize open access and boundary-free creativity. Inside, a frequently updated series of international exhibitions can be found alongside the museum’s permanent collection, including many interactive or installation pieces like Leandro Erlich’s famous “Swimming Pool” – a room that lets visitors take a dip “underwater” without ever getting wet. The museum is a must-see for contemporary art lovers, and the fun factor makes it ideal for families. Since many works are part of the free-to-enter public zone, it’s even a good destination for travelers exploring Japan on a budget!

Kanazawa 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art (金沢21世紀美術館)
1-2-1 Hirosaka, Kanazawa, Ishikawa
Hours:
　Exhibition Zone: 10:00 – 18:00 (~20:00 on Fridays & Saturdays)
　Public Zone: 9:00 – 22:00 (~21:00 on Fridays & Saturdays)
　Closed Mondays
Admission: ticket prices vary depending on the exhibit
Official Website (en)

Directions: next to Kenrokuen Garden, or about 20 min. by bus from Kanazawa Station

Train Travel: Beyond Kanazawa

Kanazawa is famed for its historical districts and beautiful architecture, artists and artisans, but all of those factors make it a busy sightseeing destination. When you’re ready to get away from the crowds and explore some of Ishikawa’s hidden gems, then you’ll want to hop on a train and head out of the big city. Fortunately, that’s pretty easy if you’re using the Hokuriku Arch Pass or the Kansai-Hokuriku Area Pass. To explore our next destinations, you can take the IR Ishikawa Railway Line north for an extra dose of Ishikawa history, or reserve a seat on the Hokuriku Shinkansen for a relaxing journey south to Japan’s beloved hot springs.

④ Myojoji Temple

As Hokuriku’s head temple for the Nichiren school of Buddhism, Myojoji is already a historical and spiritual landmark, but the tranquil grounds and incredibly well-preserved architecture make it a destination worth going out of your way for. The temple was founded in 1294, and most of the buildings visitors see today were constructed in the 1600s, making them surprisingly old for a Japanese historical site! Despite the history of many Japanese shrines and temples dating back hundreds or even thousands of years, the prevalence of fires, natural disasters, and even certain maintenance practices means that many buildings have only been around for a fraction of the facility’s total lifespan. Many of the buildings at Myojoji have managed to escape destruction over the past four centuries, allowing the temple to maintain structures built as early as 1593, under the patronage of the ruling Maeda clan. The centerpiece is the spectacular five-storied pagoda, completed in 1618.

Myojoji Temple (妙成寺)
Yo-1 Takidanimachi, Hakui, Ishikawa
Hours:
　April ~ October: 8:00 – 17:00
　November ~ March: 8:00 – 16:30
Admission: adults 500 yen | elementary/middle schoolers 300 yen
Official Website (en)

Directions: from Kanazawa Station, take the IR Ishikawa Railway Line/JR Nanao Line to Hakui Station, and catch a bus to Myojoji-guchi bus stop

⑤ Kaga Onsen

Follow in the footsteps of the famous poet Matsuo Basho, and round out your trip to Ishikawa with a haiku-worthy visit to the beautiful hot springs region of Kaga Onsen. A series of small hot spring towns can be found nestled in the mountains south of Kanazawa, but the serenity and natural beauty of Yamanaka Onsen make it especially worth the trip into the highlands.

Fortunately, despite the remote location, Yamanaka Onsen’s historic ryokan inns and steaming hot spring baths aren’t actually all that hard to access, and the trains are especially easy to navigate when you use a JR pass instead of buying separate tickets. Visit the area to enjoy the verdant greenery of Kakusenkei Gorge, seek out the historic samurai villa hidden deep in the woods (called “Mugen-an”), and give yourself plenty of time back at the ryokan in the evening to enjoy the region’s local delicacies and fantastic onsen baths!

Yamanaka Onsen (山中温泉)
Yamanaka Onsen, Kaga, Ishikawa

Directions: from Kanazawa Station, take the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Kagaonsen Station, and catch a bus (once every 1~2 hours) to Katsuragicho or Nishikatsuragicho bus stop

▶︎ Ishikawa is known for its delicious crab, caught off the coast in the Sea of Japan, and you can even enjoy it on your journey between Kanazawa and Yamanaka Onsen. Make a quick stop at Kaga Onsen Station and head right outside for a spectacular seafood meal at Kuimonya Furusato Kaga-ten. Here you’ll want to try the Kaga Crab Set: steamed crab rice, miso soup, seasonal hot pot, five side dishes served in Kutani porcelain, and a cup of fragrant Kaga bocha tea. It’s a great way to dip your toes into Ishikawa’s local food culture.

Kuimonya Furusato Kaga-ten (くいもん家 ふるさと加賀店)
1-55-55 Kosuganamimachi, Kaga, Ishikawa
Hours: 11:00 – 14:30 / 17:00 – 22:00 | only open for lunch on Mondays | closed Tuesdays
Official Website (jp)

Start Planning a Trip to Ishikawa Today

Ishikawa takes pride in its local artisan legacy, from the performing arts of expert geishas to the culinary delights created from local ingredients, and that artistry is apparent even in the elegant gardens of Kanazawa and the historic architecture of Myojoji Temple. So for travelers interested in exploring a new side of Japan, the rich cultural heritage of Ishikawa offers the perfect place to take it slow and truly enjoy each moment to the fullest. Even better, convenient rail access and passes like the Hokuriku Arch Pass or the Kansai-Hokuriku Area Pass make it easier than ever to visit Ishikawa from Osaka, Kyoto, or Tokyo. Enjoy a quick trip on the Hokuriku Shinkansen, then relax and soak up the stories of dancing geishas and onsen-loving poets in Ishikawa!

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