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3 Choses à Faire Absolument à Utshunomiya Tochigi – un Voyage dans la Ville des Gyoza et du Jazz au Japon

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Les raviolis japonais, ou "gyoza", sont délicieux qu'ils soient grillés, à la vapeur ou frits. Il s'agit d'un repas chinois qui a été "japonisés" après la Seconde Guerre Mondiale par les soldats japonais revenus au pays. Même si beaucoup de gens aiment les cuisiner soi-même, les Japonais ont plutôt tendance à sortir pour en manger. Il existe une ville entière célèbre pour ses gyoza. A moins d'une heure en shinkansen, JAPANKURU s'est aventuré à Utsunomiua, au milieu de la préfecture de Tochigi pour goûter à ce délicieux plat et voir ce que les alentours ont à offrir.



A chaque fois que nous visitons la préfecture de Tochigi, nous découvrons une autre facette de la région. Plutôt que de profiter des paysages naturels, des temples et sanctuaires ou les bâtiments historiques qu'on trouve à Nikko, nous nous sommes rendu dans une région plus moderne et dense. Utshunomiya est d'ailleurs un superbe endroit pour écouter du jazz et explorer une magnifique grotte, ce qui a complètement changé notre vision de la région.

🥟 Guide pour se rendre à Utsunomiya  🥟

① Tokyo → Utsunomiya Comment y aller?

② Gyoza Galore! A KIRASSE (来らっせ本店)

③ Grotte artificielle de la période d'Edo: Oya History Museum

④ Pour vos sorties nocturnes: Le FLAIR BAR

⑤ Et après? Mashiko-cho (益子町)

🥟 ① Se rendre à Utsunomiya depuis Tokyo 🥟



Cela prend seulement 50 minutes par Shinkansen (TGV japonais) pour se rendre à Utshunomiya depuis Tokyo, très pratique pour vos voyages hors de la mégalopole. Si vous préférez conduire, vous pouvez tout à faire louer une voiture. Cela prendra 3 heures pour y aller, mais la voiture vous permet de facilement aller d'un point à un autre dans la préfecture.

🚝Par train: Vous pouvez vous y rendre via le Tohoku Shinkansen (gratuit avec le JR Pass), la ligne JR Shonan Shinjuku, ou la ligne Tobu Utsunomiya.
🚗 Par voiture de location: Sans embouteillages, vous y serez en 2 heures!

🥟 ② Gyoza Galore! A KIRASSE (来らっせ本店) 🥟

Si vous êtes un fan de ravioli, alors vous allez adorer venir à Utsunomiya et goûter à leur gyoza. Ces derniers n'ont rien à voir avec ceux de Tokyo! Pour vous donner une idée de leur popularité, il existe plus de 200 restaurants à gyoza à Utshunomiya et beaucoup se trouvent en face de la gare. Il existe d'ailleurs une carte qui montre tous les restaurants à gyoza de la ville. Ce qui rend les raviolis chinois d'Utsunomiya si spécial? Le fait qu'il existe trois façons différentes de les servir: sautés, frits ou bouillis. De plus, même si il existe des tonnes de manière de les fourrer, la plupart sont farçis avec des légumes.

Plutôt que d'aller de restaurant en restaurant, nous avons trouvé une boutique qui sert tous les types de gyoza au même endroit. KIRASSE est un superbe endroit pour venir avec ses amis, se détendre et goûter des milliers de différents gyoza!



🥟 A propos de KIRASSE (来らっせ本店) 🥟



KIRASSE se situe aux alentours de la gare d'Utshunomiya au sous-sol du fameux magasin Don Quijote. Il est divisé en deux zones, l'une contient des boutiques "régulières", l'autre change tous les jours, ce qui vous garantira de manger des gyoza différents à chaque fois.

Boutiques régulières: Il existe 5 boutiques de raviolis → Gyoza Utsunomiya Minmin (餃子宇都宮みんみん), Menmen (めんめん), Satsuki (さつき), Kyoran (香蘭), Gyoza Ryumon (ぎょうざの龍門).
Boutiques temporaires: Vous trouverez 33 stands qui changent chaque jour. Le site web est en japonais mais vous pouvez vous rendre sur la page d'accueil de KIRASSE pour lire le programme.

KIRASSE (来らっせ)
Google Maps
*Sous-sol de MEGA Don Quijote
⏰Semaine 11:00~20:30 (dernière commande à 20:00), Weekends 11:00~21:00 (dernière commande à 20:30)
Ouvert toute l'année
💻Official website (JPN)

🥟 Comment commander à KIRASSE's 🥟



① Rendez vous au stand qui vous plait et commandez. Vous recevrez un numéro à emporter avec vous et à mettre sur votre table.



② Vous pouvez revenir vous asseoir le temps que les gyoza soient préparés.



③ Plus qu'à manger!! Vous pouvez commander des gyozas différents à chaque restaurant en même temps (c'est ce que nous avons fait) et le personnel viendra vous les apporter!

🥟 Des tonnes de gyoza à essayer 🥟

Les raviolis japonais sont en général frits ("yaki gyoza), mais vous pouvez en choisir des bouillis ("sui gyoza") ou frits ("age gyoza") à KIRASSE. En plus de ça, il existe toute sorte de gyoza à tester, tels que des gyoza on yuzu, au kimchi ou encore au fromage piquant. La sauce également peut varier. En general, on trempe le gyoza dans un mélange de sauce soja, de vinaigre et d'huile pimentée (rayu), mais certains de ceux que nous avons goûter ne doivent se manger qu'avec l'huile pimentée. Vous pouvez ainsi explorer la richesse de la culture japonaise en matière de ravioli pour des prix très petits (entre 250 et 720 yens)!



(De la gauche vers la droite:  Gyoza Utsunomiya Minmin (餃子宇都宮みんみん), Menmen (めんめん), Kyoran (香蘭))



(de la gauche vers la droite: Gyoza Ryumon (ぎょうざの龍門), Kyoran (香蘭), Gyoza Utsunomiya Minmin (餃子宇都宮みんみん))

💎 ③ Grotte artificielle de la période d'Edo: Oya History Museum 💎

La pierre d'Oya est une roche volcanique très précieuse dans la préfecture de Tochigi car elle était utilisée pour construire des bâtiments durant la période d'Edo. Même l'architecte américain Frank Lloyd Write s'en est servi pour construire l'hôtel impérial à Tokyo. A Utsunomiya se trouve une grotte artificielle sous la montagne qui servait à l'extraction de cette roche.

Le musée d'histoire Oya (大谷資料館) vous apprendra davantage sur les méthodes de minage dans l'histoire de Tochigi. Vous pouvez toujours y trouver des panneaux ou des marques laissées par et pour les mineurs de l'époque. La roche a été exploitée depuis mi-Edo jusqu'à 1960 lorsque les machines ont commencé à se développer. Chaque mineur transportait quotidiennement 10 pierres de 18x30x90. Il fallait plus des 4000 coups de pioches pour en extraire une seule. Lorsque les machines sont arrivés, chaque mineur pouvait alors emporter 50 de ces pierres par jour. A la fin, plus de 10 millions de pierres ont été extraites et transportée dans tout le Japon.

La totalité de la zone d'étend sur 20 000 mètres carrés et d'une profondeur de 30 mètres. Le long de la visite, vous verrez également de surprenantes photos et vidéos qui ont été prises pour faire des films et des clips musicaux. Les fans de Rurôni Kenshin reconaîtront certainement l'endroit!



Voici un spot utilisé par le groupe de rock X-japan pour leur clip "FOREVER LOVE"





Pour vous y rendre, vous pouvez prendre le bus n°45 direction Tateiwa (立岩) et descendre à Shiryokan Iriguchi (資料館入口). Cela vous prendra seulement 30 minutes.

Oya History Museum (大谷資料館)
Google Maps
⏰Avril~Nov 9:00~17:00 (dernière entrée 16:30)
Dec~Mars 9:30~16:30 (dernière entrée 16:00)
Fermé: Dec~Mars chaque mardi, congés du nouvel an
💻Official website (JPN)

🍸 ④ Ambiance nocturne: The FLAIR BAR 🍸

Les gyoza d'Utshunomiya sont bien sûr très connus dans tout le Japon mais il existe également un superbe endroit pour écouter du jazz et boire. Le père du jazz japonais, Watanabe, est né à Utsunomiya et a lancé la scène de jazz dans la région. Vous trouverez de très nombreux bars de jazz là-bas mais un a particulièrement attiré notre attention.









4 ans de suite, la compétition nationale de barman a été remportée par un des représentants d'Utsunomiya, ce qui a développé l'industrie du bar dans la région.

Le FLAIR BAR, qui est tenu par Miyazaki Ryohiko, est connu pour être un des meilleurs barman du Japon. Lorsqu'il a lancé sa carrière, il trouvait qu'être un "simple" barman n'était pas suffisant et cherchait quelque chose pour se démarquer. C'est à ce moment qu'il a commencé le flairbartending (bar spectaculaire) en s'entrainant dans des parcs. Ca n'a pas été long pour lui d'être considéré comme le meilleur barman du Japon. FLAIR BAR propose des spectacles entre 21:00 et 23:00 tous les soirs. C'était la première fois que nous assistions à du flairbartending au Japon et nous n'avons pas été déçus.

The FLAIR BAR
Google Maps
⏰Dim~Jeud 18:00~1:00, Vendredi et Samedi 18:00~2:00
💻Official website (JPN)



🚌 ⑤ Et après? Mashiko-cho (益子町) 🚌

Après une journée entre gyoza, jazz et grottes à Utsunomiya, notre prochain arrêt fut Mashiko-Cho à Tochigi! A seulement une heure de bus depuis la gare d'Utsunomiya, Mashiko-cho est très connu pour sa poterie et céramique vieille de plus de 100 ans. En plus de visiter leurs oeuvres, nous avons également pu ramasser nous-même des fraises et visiter une distillerie de sake!

Vous voulez en savoir plus à propose de Mashiko-cho? Restez là!

Pensez à lire JAPANKURU🐶 pour des articles excitants et quotidiens!!

Ou ajoutez-nous sur Instagram and Facebook et partagez vos photos du Japon💖🗾

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    • The Chubu region (中部地方) is located in the center of Japan's main island and consists of 9 prefectures: Aichi, Fukui, Gifu, Ishikawa, Nagano, Niigata, Shizuoka, Toyama, and Yamanashi. Being primarily famous for its mountains like Mount Fuji and the Japanese Alps, and ski resorts in Niigata and Nagano, it is a popular winter destination for tourists.

    • Nagano Prefecture's popularity starts with a wealth of historic treasures, like Matsumoto Castle, Zenkoji Temple, and Togakushi Shrine, but the highlight might just be the prefecture's natural vistas surrounded by the "Japanese Alps." Nagano's fruit is famous, and there are plenty of places to pick it fresh, and the area is full of hot springs, including Jigokudani Monkey Park―where monkeys take baths as well! Thanks to the construction of the Hokuriku shinkansen line, Nagano is easily reachable from the Tokyo area, adding it to plenty of travel itineraries. And after the 1998 Nagano Winter Olympics, ski resorts like Hakuba and Shiga Kogen are known around the world.

    • Aichi Prefecture sits in the center of the Japanese islands, and its capital city, Nagoya, is a center of politics, commerce, and culture. While Aichi is home to major industry, and is even the birthplace of Toyota cars, it's proximity to the sea and the mountains means it's also a place with beautiful natural scenery, like Saku Island, Koijigahama Beach, Mt. Horaiji. Often used a stage for major battles in Japanese history, Sengoku era commanders like Oda Nobunaga, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and Tokugawa Ieyasu left their own footprints on Aichi, and historic buildings like Nagoya Castle, Inuyama Castle, and those in Meiji Mura are still around to tell the tale.

    • NIIGATA

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      Niigata is a prefecture on Japan's main island of Honshu, situated right on the coast of the Sea of Japan, and abundant with the gifts of nature. It's known for popular ski resorts such as Echigo-Yuzawa, Japanese national parks, and natural hot spring baths, plus local products like fresh seafood, rice, and sake. Visitors often spend time in the prefectural capital, Niigata City, or venture across the water to Sado Island.

    • SHIZUOKA

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      Shizuoka Prefecture is sandwiched between eastern and western Japan, giving the prefecture easy access to both Tokyo and Osaka. Not only is it known for beautiful natural attractions, with everything from Mount Fuji to Suruga Bay, Lake Hamanako, and Sumata Pass―Shizuoka's Izu Peninsula is known as a go-to spot for hot springs lovers, with famous onsen like Atami, Ito, Shimoda, Shuzenji, and Dogashima. Shizuoka attracts all kinds of travelers thanks to historic connections with the Tokugawa clan, the Oigawa Railway, fresh eel cuisine, Hamamatsu gyoza, and famously high-quality green tea.

    • Kansai (関西地方) is a region that includes Mie, Nara, Wakayama, Kyoto, Osaka, Hyogo and Shiga prefectures. Gradually becoming one of the most popular areas of Japan, Kyoto's temples and shrines, Osaka Castle, and feeding the deer in Kobe are considered a must. Many say the people in Kansai are more open and friendly, making it a fun place to hang out at night.

    • Kyoto flourished as the capital of Japan between the years 794 and 1100, becoming a center for poilitics and culture, and to this day it's a great place for close encounters with Japanese history. The cobbled streets of Gion, the atmospheric road to Kiyomizudera Temple, Kinkakuji's golden walls and countless historic attractions, even Arashiyama's Togetsukyo Bridge―Kyoto is a place of many attractions. With new charms to experience throughout the seasons, travelers can't stop themselves from returning again and again.

    • Osaka is known for friendly (and funny) people, but its history is nothing to laugh at, playing a major part in Toyotomi Hideyoshi's 16th century unification of Japan. Thanks to long years of economic activity, it's one of Japan's biggest cities, and Osaka's popular food culture earned it the nickname "The Kitchen of the Nation." To this day Osaka is the model of western Japan, and alongside historic structures like Osaka Castle, it also has major shopping malls like Umeda's Grand Front Osaka and Tennoji's Abeno Harukas. Osaka is a place to eat, eat, eat, with local specialties like takoyaki, okonomiyaki, and kushi-katsu, and for extra fun, it's home to Universal Studios Japan.

    • CHUGOKU

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      The Chugoku Region (中国地方) consists of five prefectures: Hiroshima, Okayama, Shimane, Tottori, and Yamaguchi. In Chugoku you’ll find the sand dunes of Tottori, and Hiroshima’s atomic bomb site, plus centers of ancient history like Grand Shrine of Izumo.

    • SHIKOKU

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      On the other side of the Seto Inland Sea opposite Japan’s main island, Shikoku (四国) is a region made up of four prefectures: Ehime, Kagawa, Kochi, and Tokushima. The area is famous for its udon (in Kagawa), and the beautiful Dogo Onsen hot springs (in Ehime).

    • Kagawa Prefecture is on the northern part of the island of Shikoku, facing Japan's main island and the Seto Inland Sea. It's known for being the smallest prefecture in Japan, by area, but at the same time Kagawa is called the "Udon Prefecture" thanks to its famous sanuki udon. Aside from Kotohiragu Shrine and Ritsurin Garden, the prefecture's small islands are popular, and Kagawa is full of unique destinations, like Angel Road. They say that if you lay eyes on Zenigata Sunae, a huge Kagawa sand painting, you'll never have money troubles ever again.

    • Located in the most southwestern part of Japan, Kyushu (九州) has 7 prefectures: Fukuoka, Saga, Nagasaki, Kumamoto, Oita, Miyazaki and Kagoshima. Famous for its unique culture and history of Chinese and Dutch trade and Western missionaries, Kyushu offers many historic treasures and beauties. It is also home to some of Japan's most famous natural hot springs due to all the volcanos.

    • FUKUOKA

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      Fukuoka Prefecture has the highest population on the southern island of Kyushu, with two major cities: Fukuoka and Kitakyushu. Thanks to growing transportation networks, Fukuoka is more accessible than ever, and so are the many local attractions. On top of historical spots like Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine, travelers shouldn't miss Fukuoka's food scene, with motsu nabe (offal hotpot), mentaiko (spicy cod roe), and famous Hakata ramen―best eaten from a food stall in the Nakasu area of Hakata. Plus, it's full of all sorts of destinations for travelers, like trendy shopping centers, and the beautiful nature of Itoshima and Yanagawa.

    • KAGOSHIMA

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      Kagoshima Prefecture played a major role in Japan's modernization as a backdrop for famous historical figures like samurais Saigo Takamori and Okubo Toshimichi, who pushed Japan out of the Edo era and into the Meiji. Because of that, Sengan-en Garden is just one of many historical destinations, and when it comes to attractions Kagoshima has plenty: the active volcano of Sakurajima, popular hot springs Ibusuki Onsen and Kirishima Onsen, World Heritage Site Yakushima Island, even what Japan calls the "island closest to heaven," Amami Oshima. Kagoshima might be found on the very southernmost tip of the southern island of Kyushu, but there's plenty to see.

    • OKINAWA

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      The island chain of Okinawa (沖縄) makes up the southernmost tip of Japan, which is why it's also the most tropical area in the country. Thanks to a history of independence and totally distinct political and cultural events, Okinawa has a unique culture, and remnants of the Ryukyu Kingdom are still visible all over the islands. Food, language, traditional dress, it's all a little different! It's also said to be the birthplace of karate.

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